Guardians of timeless beauty

The mountain world of the Andes in South America stretches over more than 7,500 kilometres. It is a world of extremes. Snow and rock as far as the eye can see. In between there are seething volcanoes and thousands of kilometres of nothing but ice and salt. This sounds like a world that would be hostile to life. But animals and plants have adapted marvellously to these conditions. This also applies to the grapevine. Around the small town of Cafayate, in one of the last foothills of the Andes in north-west Argentina, the highest vineyards in the world can be found. But what does the altitude do to the grapes? Or to put it another way: what do the Andes taste like in a glass of wine?

If you like travelling in the high Alps, you will know that the sunlight is more intense and that you need to protect yourself with sun cream with a high protection factor. The grapes simply develop a thicker skin. This makes the wines darker and rich in tannins. The thick coating also ensures that the fruit remains healthy and does not burst open. This allows them to mature for a particularly long time and develop their full flavour. The cold nights at 1,700 metres above sea level also ensure that a pleasant acidity is retained. This results in lively, balanced wines. As the vine has to work hard to thrive on this soil, it has more backbone - often referred to as structure in the language of wine. A bit like people who have overcome crises. À propos: Cafayate translates as "where worries are buried". Is it the good wine? Or the imposing mountain scenery that leaves you in awe? Probably a combination of both...

In the 1990s, the pioneer of Friulian viticulture, Marco Felluga, came across an old, unique vineyard in the municipality of Buttrio. However, this was only for sale together with a run-down castle, in which he had no interest. However, as he did not want to miss out on these vines from 1933, he agreed to the whole package. In 2007, his daughter Alessandra took over the property. She wanted to realise her own winery here. The castle, which had been uninhabited for over 65 years and was in a poor state of repair, was initially only an addition for them too. "But over time, the castle has conquered my heart," says the oenologist. Step by step and with great attention to detail, she renovated the various buildings on the estate. Today, the Castello houses a small hotel with 15 rooms. Alessandra runs the company with her two daughters, Maria Vittoria and Michela. The three women have created a timeless style through their lively and creative exploration of the past. The family follows a clear principle: "The undertaking must always be adapted to the location. Not the other way round. This applies to both architecture and viticulture," explains Alessandra. This is also the reason why she makes a red wine, although Friuli is known for its white wines: "The conditions here at the foot of the hill are perfect for Merlot," says the winemaker. Not to make this wine simply because of the demands of the market would be to misjudge the potential of the location. Alessandra, Maria Vittoria and Michela see themselves as guardians of this special environment. They preserve the stories and special features of the place by translating them into a contemporary form. This enables them to create stylish wines that are modern and full of character.   

The Luberri winery is not one of Rioja's famous names, but it deserves to be discovered. Especially if you know the story of Florentino Martínez Monje. The down-to-earth, casual Basque is the founder and soul of the winery. Florentino comes from a family of farmers and grew up in the vineyards of Rioja Alavesa. It is said that hardly anyone knows the region as well as he does. From an early age, he learned to read the soil, interpret the weather and tend the vines as if they were part of his family. But Florentino wanted more. He wanted to create wines that preserved the soul of his homeland in every bottle. After years at the renowned Artadi winery, which he co-founded in 1985, he ventured into independence. He founded Luberri - Basque for "free land" - because he wanted to make wines according to his own ideas: free, honest, full of life. 

With wines such as Biga de Luberri, Florentino Martínez Monje proves that a Rioja can not only embody tradition, but also stand for passion and authenticity. When asked how his wine tastes, the winemaker likes to answer with a little anecdote: at an important Rioja tasting a few years ago, his wine stood alongside the region's greats. The only bottle that was empty at the end? Biga de Luberri! "While people like to talk about the other wines, they prefer to drink my wine. It makes them happy," smiles Florentino. Our verdict: a Rioja that not only impresses, but inspires!  

We became acquainted with the wines of "Maison de la Villette" 10 years ago. They are now like old friends to us. So let's give them the chance to talk about themselves:
Benoît Cabernet sits at a small bistro table - his arms crossed, his moustache twitching in amusement. Next to him, Sophie Chardonnay slumps into the cushions, lights a cigarette and nonchalantly throws her bag onto the table. Louis Rosé enters the bistro, a book under his arm, his linen jacket slung casually over his shoulder. Benoît smiles, swirls his glass: "Ah, toujours en retard, mon petit Louis. Too long immersed in books?" Louis sighs, sits down, leafs through his book: "Oh, Benoît, it's the warm, southern French light that I miss. In Paris, even the sun is a little melancholy." Sophie takes a drag on her cigarette and winks at him: "Mon cher, you're just too much of a dreamer. Paris lives, breathes, dances - you just have to know where!" Benoît grins: "And you know that, of course. Cabaret, champagne, all these temptations. But in the end, Sophie, what remains? A good roast, a sip of red wine and real friends." Sophie laughs, toasts him: "My dear Benoît, you're as predictable as a perfectly matured Brie. And yet - charming." Louis thoughtfully: "You're both so loud. I prefer to savour the stillness of a moment. A glass of cool rosé, a view of the water..." Benoît snorts, raises his glass: "Well, my boy, that's the difference. Sophie and I celebrate life. But you - you long for it." Sophie raises her glass: "Alors, to friendship, to good conversations - and to the fact that each of us is unique in our own way!"